It would be hard to find a more joyful (and determined) person in the South Bay than Mike Purpus. The world champion surfer and local legend, who turned 78 in November, has experienced some recent health issues, including a heart attack, skin cancer and two hip replacement surgeries. But if you think that’s going to stop him, think again.
Mike can be found daily in Redondo Beach checking out the waves and talking with friends as he walks the Knob Hill stairs—from Knob Hill to Catalina, top to bottom—six times.
“My advice for anyone, whether they are experiencing a health issue or not, is to just get out there every day. Keep going. Keep moving. Keep trying. I can’t wait until the doctor gives me the A-OK to surf again!”
Mike’s last name is well suited. Many longevity studies conducted by scientists from around the world show that those who have a sense of purpose live longer lives. Yes, it’s important to eat well, exercise, drink in moderation and reduce stress. But those with a strong sense of purpose tend to be more resilient, positive, determined, social, consistent with exercise and strive to have fun.
Having a purpose doesn’t require tackling the world’s toughest problems (although it can). Experts say purpose is linked to a reason for getting up in the morning and engaging in life. It can be a compulsion to do something enjoyable or meaningful—whether that’s volunteering, creating art, taking care of children (or parents), or swimming and surfing daily.
Mike was raised in Hermosa Beach on Monterey Boulevard, just steps from the ocean. Clearly, its draw was powerful.
“I was swimming in the ocean by myself at age 5! My mom and dad often couldn’t find me. One day a lifeguard picked me up and took me home. He told my parents to get me swim lessons, and they did,” says Mike with a laugh. “And I’ve been in the ocean ever since!”
Not only did Mike swim in the ocean before his kindergarten years, he began surfing at age 10. By high school, he typically surfed twice a day. At one point, Mike was asked to take care of a house on The Strand in Hermosa Beach that was lovingly known as “Doc’s House,” as it was owned by Dr. Albert Ackroyd. Mike lived there with “Doc” Ackroyd and a group of friends who all dedicated their lives to surfing.
It didn’t take long for Mike to enter—and win—surf competitions. At age 17 he placed fourth in the junior division in the 1965 United States Surfing Championship. A year and a half later, he went on to finish sixth in the men’s division of that prestigious championship. He then placed fifth in the men’s division in 1968 and earned the coveted third-place spot in both 1969 and 1970.
His surf career kept ramping up, and Mike competed globally. He won both the kneeboarding and longboarding divisions of the 1975 United States Surfing Championships and won the small-wave event in the 1970 Peru International Championships. In 1972 he placed second in the Makaha International Championships and competed in the World Surfing Championships in 1968, 1970 and 1972. He was also a five-time invitee to the Duke Kahanamoku Invitational annual surfing meet, as well as a finalist in the 1972 Hang Ten American Pro contest.
There is no question that Mike was an accomplished athlete, yet his fun, playful personality began garnering attention from Hollywood. He made three appearances on The Dating Game (1965) and has been interviewed by several national magazines.
Even when times are tough, Mike has a good time. While getting treatment at Torrance Memorial Medical Center (which he laughingly calls his home away from home), he offered to teach nurses how to surf—and did! He also gave Todd Shrader, MD, an orthopedic surgeon at Torrance Memorial, a personally designed surfboard and wetsuit “for giving me two hips 10 years ago.”
It’s these moments that show not only Mike’s determination and resilience but also that he is engaging, fun and giving. He continues to enjoy life and find time to help others while keeping his sense of humor and remaining grateful during adversity. These are the hallmarks of someone who knows how to live well.
In his own words: “It is a great life if you don’t weaken.” Aloha, Mike Purpus.
